Assembling the hardware for our HTPC Console
[ i ] This tutorial is not intended for experienced users but for people wanting to build their own console and needing the basic knowledge in order to plan their HTPC project. Consider this a high level introduction on PC building, focused on SFF (Small Form Factor) use case. For the actual process of installing hardware components, connecting cables and so on, refer to the manuals of your purchased components (specifically the case manual, the motherboard manual and the cooler manual).
In order to build a PC (or a console in our case), we need at least these 8 essential components:
It holds all the other components together and provides the power button and additional connectivity capabilities like extra USB and audio ports and usually also some fans for the airflow.
It also defines the size and shape of our console and its ventilation (this one is particularly important in order to avoid high temperatures which might degrade the performances and lifespan of our components and also to keep our console silent).
The type and size of the case defines how many components we can install and their type (for instance the amount of fans and/or the max size of the GPU). In order to build our custom console we must looking for SFF (Small Form Factor) / Mini-itx cases and we have to prioritize cases which are “as open as possible” offering the best possible airflow even without any additional fan installed.
[ i ] A good case should make your build easier by providing a smart and well conceived design, space for cable management and let you open/close it for further adjustments with the less possible effort.
It’s a crucial component which defines the type of CPU (processor), RAM and SSD we can install in the first place and then it provides WIFI and audio cards and USB connectivities.
So if you want to install an AMD cpu, you need an AMD motherboard and if you want to install an Intel CPU an Intel one, but you also have to check that the mobo is compatible with the target CPU generation (for instance you can’t install an AMD Zen5 CPU on an AMD Zen4 mobo).
The best way to figure out what you can install on a motherboard is by checking on the manufacturer website (Asus, ASRock, MSI, Gygabite…). There are 3 types of motherboards: ATX, Micro-ATX (mATX), and Mini-ITX. These differ in the size and available slots for ram, ssd and so on, ATX are the biggest ones (305mm x 244mm), mATX are in the middle (244mm x 244mm) and finally the Mini-ITX are the smallest ones (170mm x 170mm) and the ones we should target to build our console in order to keep the size as compact as possible.
It’s important to know that there are also 3 tiers of mobo (for each format): A, B and X.
The A type are entry level mobo and so they are cheap, but limited in features (less connectivity options, cannot be used to overclock CPU and RAM, they are not good for high end CPU…).
The B type is usually the “go to” tier, these are generally very good mobo providing overclocking capabilities, better power management and connectivities for a higher but still reasonable price tag.
The X type are “extreme” mobo designed for enthusiasts wishing to push overclocking and performances to the limit of the hardware, the ones are very expensive and also provide tools such display led to debug hardware issues.
[ i ] There is a “dumb myth” for which you can save money on the motherboard since is not a component “providing FPS”. While this might sounds reasonable, the motherboard (and its BIOS) is crucial for the stability of the build, especially if we want to overclock our CPU and RAM.
Cheaper motherboards like ASRock ones might be ok for low end CPU, but there have been several cases of burnt cpus on those motherboards (mostly 9800x3d, but also less powerful cpu)… so in the end, is it worth sparing money on the motherboard by risking to buy another one plus a new CPU later on?
This is the brain of the computer and it’s the one responsible of running all the tasks allowing the OS, games and whatever to work.
The 2 main traits defining a CPU are the number of cores and the clock frequency (“processor’s speed”).
Ideally we want the higher clock speed and the largest number of cores the money can buy in order to have a powerful machine, but of course it depends on the goal of a computer.
In our case (gaming) the very minimum number of cores should be 4 and the ideal one 8 with a clock speed of at least 2ghz.
Gaming-wise the usage and the type of CPU depends also on which game we are playing and most importantly its resolution, because the higher the resolution the lower the load of the CPU and the higher the one on the GPU. That being said, CPU do matters even @ 4k, both the clock speed than the number of cores, especially the latter if a game is well designed for multi threading and can leverage all the available cores (Cyberpunk 2077 it’s a good example).
[ i ] Since CPU generates a lot of heat under load, it’s highly advisable to avoid CPUs with high TDP (Thermal Design Power) when building a compact HTPC in order to make temperature/noise easier to manage. A good TDP for SFF builds is 65w (like Ryzen 7 9700x or Ryzen 5 9600x) while other CPU might have a TDP of 120w or even more (Ryzen 7 9800x3D is 120w, Ryzen 9 9950X3D is 170w!).
This is a crucial component which keeps the CPU (which generates tons of heat under load) cool… or at least on a reasonable temperature (ideally below 80C).
There are 2 kind of coolers: air coolers and liquid coolers (aka AIO) and despite someone might think no one is better than the other, they just have different pros and cons.
Both kind of coolers can cool down the CPU with the same effectiveness given both are on the same quality tier (of course you can’t compare a small cheap air cooler to a top tier 320mm AIO).
AIO coolers are generally a bit more expensive and aesthetically more attractive to the most of people, providing fancy displays showing temperatures and RGB fans.
Air coolers are more functional than aesthetic and the most performant ones are “huge cubes” with multiple heatsinks and fans mounted on the CPU.
Air coolers theoretically last longer then liquid ones because those after years of usage will running out of liquid.
When it comes to SFF (small form factor) builds, in the 90% of cases an air cooler is a forced choice, because only air coolers are available in compact sizes.
[ i ] The cooler is not the only way to keep CPU temperature cool. We can undervolt the CPU to lower the base temperature noticeably! Also the case airflow matters a lot. With the same CPU and cooler, we can reach even 20C less by properly customizing the bios and choosing the proper case.
This is the component responsible of storing “ephemeral data” (temporary data that is not persisted but instead that is stored only when required by programs/games and removed when not required anymore).
There are nowadays two types of RAM: DDR4 (which has by now became obsolete) and DRR5 (which is the latest standard).
The main differences from RAM to RAM are the speed (mhz or MT) and the latency (CL), the former defines how fast data can be written/read to/from and the latter the delay of the operation (time in nanoseconds required to actually start the execution).
The nice spot with the best cost/performance ratio is a 6000mhz with CL30 (at least when paired with an AMD cpu).
The ideal amount of RAM for gaming in 2025 is 32GB with a 16 + 16 kit, which allows dual channel for best performances (more ram is overkilling, less is risky for AAA games).
[ ! ] RAM must be compatible with the mobo (check QVL)
[ ! ] Each module of RAM must be the same exact type (brand, model, capacity, frequency…), you can’t mix different types (that’s why RAM are sold in kits).
[ i ] The advertised RAM speed, refers to the max speed achievable via overclock! So, don’t expect to just install it and have that speed, you have to configure the OC profile in the BIOS first.
[ i ] Regarding the amount of RAM let’s keep in mind that the OS alone might utilize 5gb or more.
Nowadays (2025) the standard hard disk format is the NVMe (Non-Volatile Memory Express) M.2 2280 (this specify the size of the drive, 22mm x 80mm).
There are 2 main versions pcie 4 and pcie 5, the former is the current standard due to its cheaper price and lower temperatures under load, pcie 5 ssd are faster but still way too expensive and they reach higher temperatures.
There is no actual meaningful performance improvements by using a modern pcie 5 drive compared to a pcie 4 when it comes to gaming (so basically right now it’s a waste of money).
The capacity of the drive (in terabytes) depends on the use case, but usually the 2tb versions are the sweet spot you should aim for, not only in order to have enough space to install multiple games, but also because the 2tb is the size that, on average, performs better compared to lower sizes (1tb or less) and higher sizes (like 4tb).
So if you want tons of available space I would buy 2 drives of 2tb instead of one of 4tb, but again, one 2tb drive will be a wiser choice in the 99% of cases.
[ i ] Don’t be fooled by claimed hd speed alone, that refers to the maximum reachable speed in sequential read/write, but in the real world (or gaming) you won’t reach that speed, because the read/write operations are NOT sequential.
Instead one feature that matters more than the max speed is the presence of a cache layer, which will provided actual performance improvements.
[ i ] SSD are sold in 2 variants: with heat sink and without. In the 99% of cases the right choice is to buy an ssd without the heatsink since this one is already provided by the motherboard!
This is the component handling the dirty job of rendering the video output of our games an thus the most expensive and the one for which you should invest the most of your target budget (compared to the other components).
Its work load is directly related to the chosen resolution, the higher it is (eg: 4k) the higher will be the load on the GPU, so you’ll need a more powerful GPU in order to get high FPS.
There are basically 3 huge brands of GPU providers: Nvidia, AMD and Intel (even though they are only the “GPU designers”, the end user will then buy customized versions from GPU vendors like Asus, Sapphire, PowerColor, Zotac, AsRock…).
Nvidia has always dominated the market and is still the one providing the most performant GPU, but recently AMD is gaining market share and improving a lot their GPU.
Intel right now it’s a kind of a niche because it’s the less adopted brand by far.
[ i ] On Linux AMD gpu are the best choice for compatibility and performances due to the (very appreciated) open-source nature of AMD drivers.
This however is a double edged sword, because when it comes to HDMI 2.1, by using an AMD gpu the bandwidth is limited to the one of HDMI 2.0. Read this post to an in depth explanation and workaround.
[ i ] It’s highly advisable to buy a GPU with more than 8gb of RAM (many games even below 4k resolution utilize ~8.5gb)
This is the heart of the PC, which provides electricity to the motherboard and all the components. There are several types of PSU, we can distinguish them by size, by power/capacity (watts), by efficiency and also by being modular or not (a modular PSU provides spare cables allowing you to only use the ones you actually need and saving space and simplifying cable management in the case).
The power of the PSU must be chosen wisely based on the types of components we want in our build, typically the one which matters the most is the GPU and GPU vendors suggest the target PSU wattage you should target in the product specs.
PSU are also usually certified by “80 PLUS“, these ratings indicate how effectively a PSU converts alternating current (AC) power from the wall into direct current (DC) power for computer components.
The ratings are (from lowest to higher): standard, bronze, silver, gold, platinum, titanium and ruby (this last one is actually only available for datacenter applications).
The higher the rate and the better and stable will be the performances (and also the saving on the electricity).
[ i ] Don’t pick up a cheap PSU, this component matters more than you might think.
Having a cheap CPU and high tier components (CPU, GPU…) is like having an athlete with tons of muscles, which can run fast, jump high, lift heavy weights but collapsing after playing for 1 hour due to a weak heart.
Goals
Before starting a build project, it’s important to set our goals in terms of performances and a budget we want to allocate in order to make the wiser choices. For my own console, my goal was building the most powerful console possible (way better than a PS5 pro) with a budget of 2000$ or less, with a physical size comparable to the one of a PS5 and a similar noise level (so, VERY quite). Feature-wise I (ideally) wanted:
- (up to) 4k resolution
- High refresh rate (120hz+)
- VRR (Variable Refresh Rate)
- HDR (High Dynamic Range)
- 60+ FPS at high resolution (~4k) in order to play action/adventure/RPG games, ~120 FPS at lower resolutions (~2k) to play First Person Shooters
Of course if you are ok with lower specs you can save hundreds of $, or spend way more if you want the absolute best.
[ i ] When it comes to SFF (Small Form Factor) builds some components are way more expensive than the “traditional counterpart” (PSU in the first place with basically a price that is doubled and motherboards with ~+50% increased price).
[ i ] The budget for a custom console build is quite flexible, but honestly I won’t spend less than 1400/1500$, otherwise maybe a PS5 pro would be a better value for money performance-wise
(even though with a custom console you have the flexibility to upgrade it later on and to play to a wider range of titles, use emulators and so on)
Components
Core components
Case: Fractal Ridge
Why? In my opinion one of the best looking and truly console-like case on the market
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B850-I Gaming WiFi
Why? Reliability (no one complaining on dead CPU online), connectivity (tons of usb ports and wifi 7) and Dolby Atmos support
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9700x (8 cores @ 3.8/5.5hz)
Why? Basically the most powerful gaming CPU when it comes to lower power consumption, it has a TDP of 65w compared to 120w of the more powerful 9800x3d, it also has the same number of cores (8) and higher clock speed.
The 9800x3d has “only” the added cache compared to the 9700x… but IMO: 1. it’s not worth the double of the price 2. The 9700x is a wiser choice for a SFF in order to avoid temperature issues.
GPU: AMD Radeon 9070 XT (16gb) – Powercolor Hellhound
Why? AMD for Linux compatibility in the first place and that model is probably the best “value for money” for GPU in 2025 (it allows high FPS in 1440p and 60+ FPS @ 4k)
RAM: G.Skill Flare X 5 (32gb) – 6000mhz – CL 36
Why? That’s one of the few ram models with a super low profile (which is important in my build in order to use the Noctua cooler).
6000mhz it’s a perfect frequency for AMD cpus, my target CL was 30 but unfortunately that version is not officially supported by the motherboard so I’ve accepted CL 36 to avoid any possible compatibility/stability issue (and I couldn’t be any wiser since everything runs perfectly!)
PSU: Corsair SF850 (850w) – certified 80+ platinum
Why? Super compact size, super efficient and silent (my required power defined by GPU vendor was 800w)
SSD: SK Hynix Platinum P41 (2tb)
Why? One of the best pcie 4 ssd. I picked up this one particularly, because it was the cheapest of the ones I had in mind (amongst which: Samsung 990 pro, Crucial T500).
Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S (low profile air cooler)
Why? Basically it’s the biggest and most effective air cooler I installable inside the Fractal Ridge (70mm).
Cables
HDMI: Ugreen certified 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 cable (can reach 8k @ 60hz, 4k @ 240hz)
Why? I love Ugreen products, they use top tier materials and their products have a fantastic design.
Ethernet: Ugreen CAT8 ethernet cable
Why? To have the most fast and stable connection possible. Bear in mind: not all the LAN cables are equal! These cable are identified by the acronym CAT{N} where N is a number indicating the version (the higher the better and larger bandwidth).
CAT8 is the latest version and it supports data transfer speeds up to 40Gbps with a bandwidth of 2000MHz (it’s basically overkilling as f*ck right now, but they cost basically like the lower CAT, so who cares).
Accessories
Controllers: Microsoft xbox wireless controllers (2025 model, series x/s)
Why? Xbox controllers are the most compatible and reliable controllers to use with a PC and their ergonomics is awesome.
Controller adapters: 8BitDo wireless adapter 2
Why? While in Bazzite / SteamOS / Windows, bluetooth controllers work (or should work) out of the box, an adapter allows a more stable connection and the lowest possible input lag.
On Bazzite, as I tested myself, it’s basically a mandatory purchase, since via bluetooth the connection is so unreliable to become unplayable (but this is very likely a software issue with the OS and/or controller firmware that could be possibly fixed in the future). Bear in mind: If you want to use 2 controllers you need to buy 2 adapters (1 adapter can pair/handle just one controller).
Controller charging station: Venom double dock station (with rechargeable batteries included)
Why? A charging station is super handy to keep your controllers in order in the first place, then since xbox controllers don’t have included rechargeable batteries (this is so dumb!) this is the perfect purchase.
Wireless Keyboard: Logitech k400 Plus
Why? While you should be able to play only with the controller, you need a keyboard to customize some game settings, install custom packages and so on. Having a single compact device, instead of keyboard + mouse, it’s the ideal choice and there is anything like this product right now on the market as far as I know.
Performances
It’s just mind blowing to see how good the gaming performances are on Bazzite, considering that games do not run natively but are instead “interpreted” by Proton and thus theoretically should have a worse performance compared to Windows. The following are the benchmark test results for Cyberpunk 2077 and Far Cry 6. (Custom settings in my case is all as “high” and “ultra” for textures where available)
[ i ] Trust me, the OS is Bazzite, not Windows despite the displayed label… I guess it’s either a wrong fallback in the benchmark test not recognizing Bazzite as valid OS or Bazzite itself presenting as Windows to the games. Moreover I don’t know why the screenshots are so dark because on my TV they look far more brighter and better (I guess that they are exported in low quality to keep the size smaller)
Cyberpunk 2077
Far Cry 6
